Best ice axe for mountaineering reddit.

Best ice axe for mountaineering reddit , Orizaba, MSH during early spring, etc. You are going to buy new axes down the road anyway, because who doesn’t have multiple ice axes, locker full of boots, etc. For almost all use cases, e. The most important factor of an ice axe is its length. At the end of the day your placements and footwork have much more of an impact then your equipment. Hello. Before you go for hood, you need to know how to self arrest, how to move properly with crampons (real ones, with real mountaineering boots), how to climb with your ice axe, how to frontpoint and how to plunge step. I've taken a 6 day intro mountaineering course and have done easy snow/glacier climbs (e. Take your raven, you'll be fine. this means that unlike a late summer objective, you need to watch the weather and hit the mountain on a good weather window. Keep these ice tools for pure ice climbing and get an ice axe for alpine climbing. I'd like some partitioning but not too much (maybe a mesh pocket or two or a second compartment. Semi auto crampons are nice if you anticipate using them with a 3/4 shank boot (now or in the future) that's more suited for snow travel and rock scrambles than for ice climbing. Learning that summiting isn’t the objective, getting back down is. I like the idea of a shorter ice axe but am wondering if 45cm is just a bit too short. I climb in the Cascades with a mountaineering organization, and they usually lend me gear, but now I think I'm ready to purchase my own ice axe. Regarding ice axes don't get hung up on the old "it needs to reach your ankles" too much - I personally rather take a slightly more technical (bent & shorter) ice axe, because it will be more versatile in the long run. They’re lightweight and streamlined, durable enough to withstand the harsh alpine conditions, and they have special attachments for certain gear – like ice axes, ropes, and crampons. I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). Reverse curve picks are designed for sustained climbing on steep ice. If im doing class 4 bouldering with an ice axe hanging on the back I’ve already accepted that I’m gonna have to live life taking some risks, might as well save the lbs If you’re set on a “walking” ice axe, 60cm is the absolute limit for vertical progression— any longer is just too cumbersome. It also isn’t suited to learn those skills. Now, I want to start mountaineering, and for my beginner tours, I believe I need an ice axe. I used the sharp point of the ice axe more than either other edge. I know there isn't the perfect allround model but i still have to start somewhere. I never really bought into this classic measurement of ice axe length. I currently use a 50cm ice axe for ski mountaineering. Ice axes are crude instruments. By contrast, I'm aware of multiple injuries caused by failures of aluminum ice axes. Technical ice tools are pretty great for climbing steep technical ice but suck for just about anything else. I find ice axes shorter than 50 cm more difficult to self arrest with, so I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 50 cm for most people. I want to buy my own ice axe. You can’t use it as an anchor for climbing. Buachaille Etive Beag and Mor are for example great and straightforward winter hikes without technical difficulties, as long as you stick to the main path. There are several different styles of ice axes -- a "walking axe" is a good place to start, for general mountaineering. I learned the Self Arrest method with an ice axe. The glacier was mostly ice very little snow until the snow bridge area. glacier travel, self arrest on climbing and while going down the simple ones like the mentioned Petzl Ride are enough. Mine is packed for Ice Climbing today. Grivel tools, Petzl crampons (superb modularity,) Blue Ice classic piolets. Modern packs have easy ice axe slings to carry them with. It's inspirational as well as instructive. Best to Have 2 Ice tools, an axe and one pole if your really moving through a variety of winter terrain. Second wack gave everything I had and pulled my whole body ontop of the axe, started to slowdown after a long time. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. I was wondering if you experienced folks ever used an Ice Tool instead of an Ice Axe for Ice climbing for sure. How best to deal with it? My ice climbing experience is limited - the AMC ice climbing course (2 weekends in NH) and a couple of the alpine multi-pitch classics in Pinkham (always Jan 29, 2015 · I don't agree that most manufacturers' ice-axe offerings are good for nothing more than easy glacier work and ski-mountaineering. These are both certified ice axes. I really stay away from ice for the most part, but may use it to get up a 5ft section of an ice slab/bulge, but generally not purely vertical. Don’t replace the glacier with a technical tool. Keep it, and get a second more technical tool if you know you need it. So far i did a lot of hiking, ferratas (D) and easy climbing (UIAA 1-2, without rope) around 2500m in the austrian alps. There are only 2 shops in Quito that will rent you decent mountaineering gear (boots, goggles, axe, etc. She is a former member of the U. Or just don't lean at all. Related Mountaineer Mountaineering Mountaineering Climbing Outdoors Sports Outdoors and Nature forward back r/WestCoastTrail A subreddit specifically about the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island in Britsh Columbia. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. Hey folks! I'm in the PDX area this weekend and next and would love to go up Hood. Nov 15, 2024 · We love the Nomic for its performance on vertical ice, but our testers found the Hydra to take steep ice climbing to a new level thanks to its incredible modularity, perfect balance, and best-in-class ice penetration. I did have to walk around a couple crevasses but they were very easily identifiable from a distance. M. I've searched extensively on Reddit and the internet about ice axes and found a variety of opinions. If you can't climb ice with a mountaineering axe comfortably then the tools aren't going to make that much of a difference. But if you go for a long Venom it would no long be any better than the conventional ice axes on e. I'm 173 cm height (5'8 ) I soon realised this ice axe was too long for the routes I'm taking, and now I'm selling it and looking for an alternative (or I might keep it for glaciers. For fans of ice climbing. First wack with the ice axe did nothing, still flying. I like the summit evo 55cm (I’m 5’9”) for my mountaineering axe. I was also up on Mount Hood today climbing, we did the pearly gates on the left side and I really wish I had a second axe for how icy it was! These are generally best as a second tool for intermediate mountaineering or easy alpine ice/snow climbs where you want security of a second tool or self arrest ability Paired with an even more technical tool. For wet ice climbing I'm a big fan of Showa Temres 282 gloves. But don’t plan on buying a second one in an effort to use it for climbing that would require two tools. Specifically this line always comes to mind frequently when thinking about ice climbing. Ice axes and crampons in the checked bag along with the ropes. i use the grivel one because i like the mini locking biners. You see that all the time. Get a bent shaft, t-rated ax. Petzl's Sum'tec description: "A compromise between a classic mountaineering ice axe and an ice climbing axe, the SUM’TEC is a versatile, lightweight, technical ice axe. S. Not even class 4 rock. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla As a beginner, without any friends practicing this sport to give me advice, the first ice axe I bought was a Petzl Summit Evo of 59cm. AAI requires a hammered ice tool such as the Quark, but also a hybrid axe measuring between 50-59cm such as a Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Summit Evo (a bit less of a hybrid I guess), or the BD Venom. Shasta in one day without ice axe or crampons. So, I would recommend the Falk or similar for climbs that are ~50 degrees or less and are likely to only require a single axe. I flew Latam into Chile with all my gear in two checked bags. That’s what ice tools are for. We scrambled up remote alpine peaks, swung ice tools on steep waterfall ice, and set out for multi-week expeditions. They walk up bigger and steeper things that start needing more equipment and skills, eg ice axe, crampons and knowing how to use them. 22 votes, 10 comments. My suggestion would be to buy a walking/mountaineering axe to get you started, as these can be had for quite cheap, and then top that up with a pair of tools when you're more certain what you'll use them for. A hybrid axe like the sum’tec doesn’t climb ice as well as dedicated tools and doesn’t arrest as well as a general axe. strongly recommend climbing steep snow with elastic umbilical cords tethered to you harness. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. Climbing on a glacier while carrying an ice axe, crampons, wearing heavy mountaineering boots, and being roped in and forced to maintain a pace that is not your own is much more Ice axe runs you 80 dollars, and crampons maybe 160. 01% of the time I'm using mine is for self arrest if even that much. 192K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. Slope was solid ice, and the speed was immediate. This is a land of 13,000-foot and 14,000-foot peaks, of lakes in the thousands, and of canyons and granite cliffs. Good mountaineering gloves include Black Diamond Guide gloves. Dec 5, 2023 · The Best Mountaineering Backpacks. It recommends I bring one mountaineering axe and one ice tool (without an adze). You're hiking the CDT - the cream of the crop, as far as skill-challenges go. Nearly every simple ice-axe on the market today climbs as well as the old classic Chouinard piolet, with which masters were climbing WI6 back in the 1970s. Here is our list for general glacier travel (per person): Obviously ice axe, crampons, harness Weather can also be quite difficult and unforgiving on Ecuadorian volcanos, so you’ll have to be prepared to encounter hail, strong winds, whiteout conditions, etc. Getting into this hobby and almost got the newer aluminum axes but this axe has nostalgia and looks pretty cool- if a little heavy. I own one. We thought it would be fun to see what you all think is "essential" and made your crevasse rescue gear list. There is quite a lot else to do with an ice axe. If you're looking for a mountaineering ax that is a step up, look at any t rated, slightly bent shaft ax. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. Doing this sport, i have ice tools instead of ice axes. There's not much to it. For example, 0 degree sleeping bag (600), suitable 4 season mountaineering tent (750), do you have hard shells? What do you think is wrong with your Talon 36? I have the 44 and have taken it mountaineering (Scotland), alpine climbing, and ice climbing. The reverse curve makes the pick easier to remove from hard ice. I fell once. If you have mountaineering boots, you can get step-in crampons. ) My candidates: Petzl Gully Either way here's what one of the world's best ice climbers had to say on falling while ice climbing. I would say: Get a sumtec and a pair of Nomics. The route requires both a general mountaineering ice axe and an ice tool, but having trouble thinking through which tool to grab. Just been monitoring conditions but am expecting to get to KMS around mid Keep a climbing journal, and your climbing enters into the rock/mixed/ice era and not just walking uphill, then be careful and listen to your body. If you have mountaineering classes or programs where you live, definitely take one this New to mountaineering and just want some additional insight into the possibility of summiting Mt Hood around June 14th this year. 213K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. Reply reply 100% agree with this. Something challenging but not super technical or risky. You can jamb these upside down into the tiniest cracks and crank your full weight on them all day long. In parralel, I am actually looking to pursue my other training in ice climbing. • Heavy thick mountaineering gaiters (to I think the long axe is an antiquated thing. black diamond, petzl, and grivel all make a variation on this product. It has a straight shaft and head with a very sharp triangular point at the tip. Most people aren’t doing sustained ice climbing on lines that they want to ski down. It is measured from the tip of the axe to the top of the head. I would definitely bring mountaineering boots, crampons and an ice axe. The climb itself is relatively straight forward with a mix of snow couloirs, scrambling, and traversing. Used for attaching your ice axe to your wrist and preventing the ice axe from disappearing down a long slop if you drop it. If you really need to lean on something, many mountaineers will use one lightweight trekking pole, axe in other hand, when it's not steep. Would be willing to climb just about anything shy of vertical ice with it, and even short pitches of ice haven't been a problem. I typically use it as a more secure way to climb up steep snow/ski routes, along with crampons, and have as a self arrest tool. I’d recommend looking at used, since many people buy long, straight axes and then realize they want something more aggressive. I took a climbing course, and Mt Baker was my first glaciated peak. Hoping to do mt. Get an ice axe that goes to around the bottom of your Blue Ice Hummingbird Ice Axe: Tried it before, liked it besides the price CAMP Corsa Ice Axe: seems like the light weight axe most people have CAMP Corsa Nanotech: Seems like it's slightly more aggresive and a bit heavier. Maybe there's glaciers to cross, in which case ropes and crevasse rescue kit and training becomes necessary. But if you can do that it becomes a do-everything axe, (except roped climbing where you'll need a reverse a pick). However, whenever I look online for recommendations, they always say that certain axes are good for general mountaineering, but some are much better (but also more expensive). He was self belaying with each plunge of the axe on snow that looked like 60 degrees maybe. If there is anything related to safety, be extra careful. 85 votes, 20 comments. Go until it doesn’t make sense anymore. 73K subscribers in the alpinism community. May 15, 2024 · On the outset, the Black Diamond Swift clearly stands out as a premium ice axe choice. It’s not rated for falls because it wouldn’t pass. First day to the Lunch Counter at 9,300', 5 hours. Hello all. The major drawback from using a leash is that you need to change your leash hand every time your ice axe changes hands. Except the extra rubber at the end. Ice Climbing Team and has climbed up to WI5 and M12- around the Colorado Rockies. Ideally, I'd also like it to be durable enough to work as a mountaineering pack for a while, and have convenient pole, ice axe & rope attachments. Be up to the challenge - get an ice axe, and From more technical models that blur the lines of what could be used for even water ice climbing to Ultralite models for alpine rock, ski-mountaineering, or spring backpacking trips on the PCT. However, I would look at the 50cm options first. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. Climbing has been testing a pre-production model since last December, where we swung them on long multi-pitch flows around Cody I’m planning my first mountaineering trip for this summer and just beginning research, but I have many questions. Beginner-to-moderate difficulty (I've completed 3x mountaineering courses and 4x objectives but my wife has only completed 1x course) Get it for mountaineering, knowing that it’s more capable than a traditional axe and can also climb gullies, couloirs, and mixed ice and snow better than a basic axe. For the “ice tool”, without getting too technical would the Sum’tec with the hammer back be good enough to climb with? Unless you start late and hike fast, you should not plan to hike the CDT without an ice axe and the practice using it. A. My climbing partner and I have been discussing our crevasse rescue gear and what we should be taking up for a few trips we have planned. TLDR: It sucks, if you have a long way to go, bring full on ice climbing gear no matter what, if it's 1-2 pitches, the weight saving of only having one ice axe might be worth it I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. Just use your imagination and move your body around the axe manually. But that shouldn't be you first ice axe you buy then. The screws I bought from a trusted friend. The Black Diamond Raven ice axe with Grip is an update on Black Diamond’s classic single axe for mountaineering. steep ice or other more technical terrain. For reference I'm 6' and use a 55cm axe. If I am doing an alpine route (steep snow requiring two tools, ice and mixed climbing) I use Petzl The ice axe stay on the ice axe loops and clips under the side compression straps of the pack. But it’s not for climbing. Imagine sledding down a steep hill, then shoving your leg into a vice bolted to the ground near the bottom of the run. They are primarily a balance aid, or self arrest tool in case of a slip, and generally not used for actual extended climbing. Its design is stylish and efficient, demonstrating a perfect blend of functionality and aesthetics in the harsh mountain climbing environment. I'm also a not too tall woman (165cm) so sizing can be a bit tricky. Alpine (ice, allround): Get a Sumtec and a Quark hammer, maybe another quark later. I currently have a Petzl Glacier for a general mountaineering axe. I have a black diamond ice axe that works great for me. I feel like everyone outgrows (technically speaking) there first Ice axe after there first mountaineering experience and wants something slightly more technical . Disassembled shovel and probe go in the stretch mesh front shove-it pocket. BD rock hardware is great, but their snow / ice climbing equipment doesn't come close to the quality or design of Petzl, Grivel, and Blue Ice. Smth like Petzl Quark o Petzl Gully. Now I want my own. Petzl Gullys or SumTecs are really neat in that regard. If you plan on climbing really steep stuff a curve can help stop the pick coming out. Any tips or tricks on renewing this broom handle axe? How to protect the logo from chipping off? I don't like bd tools. You could self arrest in most conditions with it if it’s not extremely steep or use it as a grippy pole with an axe head. My crampons (strap-on) work with snowboarding boots as well as my regular winter hiking boots. For less steep terrain I like a shorter ice axe with a curved handle. Feb 12, 2024 · Finding the best ice axe can be tricky. Business, Economics, and Finance. The CAMP Corsa is the lightest axe for hiking. Could well imagine adding a sum'tec, it's very sexy, and perhaps pure ice axes with no hammer or adze. It’s great for cutting steps. Shorter axes are better for self arrest although opinions differ. It'll keep you safe on gentle ground and is far superior to longer axes on moderate slopes. Ice axe, crampons, ice screws - I bought those second hand. A general mountaineering axe will be terrible for ice climbing. com Mar 25, 2015 · Also, leaning on your axe on gentle slopes is played out. To find the right length ice axe based on your size, hold it while standing upright and relaxed with your arms by your sides. Is this possible? I called and asked one of the guides and he said clear creek route through june is doable that way. It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. I'm currently looking into getting my first ice axe that fits my future endeavours best. May 13, 2013 · Not good. 372 votes, 98 comments. I recently just got interested in Ice climbing, and as such I've been kind of curious about designing an ice axe as either a personal or capstone project for school. They're all pretty light. One thing to keep in mind is that your ice axe will most likely be on your backpack more than your hand. I feel more comfortable descending with the long axe handy. I'm climbing Kautz with Alpine Ascents in June and wanted some advice on ice tools. The long axe is not always used upright like a walking stick. My only regret was I threw one into the hole! Carbon Fiber ice tools have been regularly on the market for over 20 years. The Petzl Lightride is a slightly heavier alternative that is a better performing axe due to its steel head and spike. Yes boots could run you anywhere from 350-1200 depending on how crazy you're gona get, but there are many other items that are expensive you are forgetting. I've spent a fair bit of time teaching self arrest techniques to university students and I have them practice with a big range; from the standard straight shaft ice axe all the way to ridiculously curved tools like Nomics. Just Mountaineering, get any walking axe. Hi! Experienced mountain hiker with no experience with anything technical, crampons ice axe etc but in elite physical and mental conditioning shape. makes the best (lightest) carabiners for alpine use, both locking and non-locking. I’m from the Midwest so I dont get many hiking opportunities. You need crampons and an ice axe, and overnight gear. the conditions on mount hood Leave it as it is. Posted by u/16Off - 1 vote and no comments The John Muir Trail passes through what many backpackers say is the finest mountain scenery in the United States. As such, don’t fall into the trap of getting a “cane”. Curious about your PCT experiences in the Sierra during high snow. It was a non technical but heavily exposed route on Everest. An ice climbing tool won’t be the best for mountaineering. The primary use of an ice axe is protection against a fall, secondary is self arresting. A walking axe and a climbing axe/tool are two very different beasts with different use cases. Im not doing only ice climbing and I want to do some alpinism. You might also discover I’m 5’9” and bought a petzl ride (45cm) in anticipation of climbing some of the PNW volcanoes (Hood, Adams, St Helens). After buying 9 of the latest and greatest, our field testers hauled them into the mountains. My first snow climb was cristo couloir on Quandary. Probably because a long summit day above 23,000ft, some combination of altitude, exhaustion, whatever, I slipped on hidden band of ice and started sliding down the I would also do lot's of crag ice climbing before doing glacial ice climbing. For snow climbs, the Petzl Summit Evo (or the BD Raven Pro, or similar) is a great option. The only downside is the lack of proper ice tool attachments, which gets annoying, but they're fine for axes. Doing a NOBO attempt starting May 10 and have been curious if Whitney would be possible this year (and ofc the Sierra itself). Way too many. Venom is a good compromise Knowledge of how to use crampons and ice axe are of course still mandatory, but you won't need any ropes. Self arresting is much easier with a standard piolet than any tools with a reverse curved pick (or even a whippet). g. 75 lb including crampons, ice axe and helmet! Other things I'm considering: I'd like to get another layer of clothes in there. Everything they list should be UIAA certified. If you're very sure you're not going down that path (or if you just want to have a regular pair also, which isn't bad), you're fairly safe with something well tested like Grivel G12 crampons. I rarely use ropes and stuff, but have done some straight up ice climbing--used a curved pair of specialty ice climbing axes, ice anchors, a moving belay climb. I'm looking at really getting into the sport and purchasing all of the necessary gear (crampons, ice axe, ice tool, mountaineering boots, crampons, helmet, etc). Seriously, nothing else even comes close. Of course, there are harder routes. The screw anchor, in a nutshell, is basically a prussik attached to the side of the rope you pull down, and wrapped around the screw enough times to unscrew it as you pull. Maybe 0. It's a great pack! For many people, mountaineering is an extension of hiking. I have crampons and an ice axe but little mountaineering experience/training. It gives you an opportunity to learn some basic mountaineering travel skills, such as rope team, ice axe use, and maybe crevasse rescue, depending on the course. There are different tools for different jobs. Once you have those skills, it can replace both for most any mountaineering. Or just ask the guide you pay to drag you up all these peaks, I guess. I think it's a combination of a few things. It's perfect for ski-mountaineering, accessing alpine rock routes, early-season backpacking, or even some more basic glacier climbs. There's no technical difficulties on the south side, but it's gonna be melted out pretty bad by that time. The snow is too deep in the alpine for an ice axe to be useful in winter. this is because there is massive rockfall hazard in the summer that is protected by rime ice during winter conditions. I used 2 axe rentals these climbs: an Edelrid and BD Raven. I'm from Switzerland and I want to start with easy high mountain tours, such as the Breitenhorn or Sustenhorn via the normal routes. I really like the Black Diamond Mission 35. The crux of the climb is a 55 degree snow couloir over a bergschrund. I had a double trad rack in my carryon bag, which was also my climbing pack(MH Scrambler 35). I just wanted to generally ask people their thoughts on general features and designs of axes such as what style blade, handle grip, shaft angle, eyelet, and spike they may prefer I’ve been considering getting the BCA Shaxe Tech for Skimo. It is often used as a snow picket, an anchor, and also for self arrest. Way too many benefits to the shorter, lighter, easier to wield ice axe. All comes down to what you are climbing. ) I didn’t think the altitude was that intense but I live in SLC and frequently hike 10-12k ft peaks and 14ers in Colorado, so I probably had a decent level of acclimatization. My wife and I are traveling to New Zealand this coming December 2024 and are looking for a mountaineering objective that meets the following requirements. The winter rated carbon poles might be the move, like I said I’m using poles made for running ultra Marathons so the durability is probably greatly sacrificed from strength. It tells the items story much Highly recommend bd venom with hammer instead of adze. I think that C. It's a 60cm Black Diamond, and I'll be using for a bit of glacier travel this weekend (possibly for getting up some steeper sections and in case of self-arrest). Petzl Ride: Weird hybrid where I think most people just get the Gully so they can ice climb. Not sure what else. If you are aerobically ready, it’s a good first choice. For scrambling, they often come loose when the axe bangs into something like a tree branch. You can pair it with a single climbing axe (like a Quark) too for easier roped-up routes. What other technical gear would I need for west butt? I already have a harness, crevasse rescue kit, grivel crampons, ice axe, ice axe leash, belay/rappel device (BD ATC guide), ascender, rope, accessory cords, locking and non locking carabiners BD just came out with a new ultralight shovel that looks promising and can use an ice axe as the handle, similar to the BCA Shaxe or an older (not very good) design from ClimbTech. The typical climb is two days. Some folks prefer shorter axes -- depends on your mechanics and the terrain you'll I saw a video of a guy climbing unroped but tethered to his axe with a sling and biner. That's genuinely the full spectrum. Great all around ice axe, handles steeper terrain, and is quite comfortable paired with an ice tool when it gets too steep for an axe alone. These tools are not made to be plunged into deep snow, therefore they are not appropriate for alpine climbing, especially for a beginner. If you go crazy and wanna climb 50 degree walls I would prefer two ice axes with a bended shaft. And you're right, an adze on the head is more useful for cutting steps on steep ice, bollards for descending etc. I have not done any trips into extreme cold conditions though, so no 4 season tent or heavy insulating layers. Concurred, dont fall. I don’t know what length will fit in your pack, but the 45cm ice axes without steel spikes (i. I still need to squeeze food and some hygiene products. We will be learning and doing some basic ice climbing. Hello! I got this ice axe from my father who used it in the Alps in 1970, and will be using it on local ascents. If you do things right, you would have plenty of other experiences and probably buy a second or even third ice axe by the time you're considering something like Denali. There are lighter options out there but if you’re already carrying an axe this means one less tube to carry. I just used an Osprey Aether Plus 70 this weekend on a 3 day, 2 night trip. I love the external crampon pouch, and use it for big water bottles in the summer climbing season. If you've never owned an ice axe before maybe you should look into more conservative climbing goals first. If you want an ice tool for ice climbing it will naturally be sharper and will require frequent resharpening depending on the terrain you climb in. I have crampons, mountaineering boots, and an ice axe but I did rent a helmet. Also much more comfortable to hold an ice axe with gloves. We bounced every possible selection off OutdoorGearLab staff, our friends, and over a dozen guides who specialize in alpine guiding and mountaineering. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Our mountaineering experts have tested 30 of the best mountaineering backpacks over the last decade. Terrain constantly changes. But all that is needed to spring climb co 14ers couloirs is a whippet. I was given a rope from a friend one time that was barely used and I triple checked it. I am much faster with resetting my self-belay when using a shorter ice axe thus my preference for my 50cm shorter ice axe when doing scrambles but no roped glacier travel. For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. r/Ultralight is the largest online Ultralight Backcountry Backpacking community! This sub is about overnight backcountry backpacking, with a focus on moving efficiently, packing light, generally aiming at a sub 10 pound base weight, and following LNT principles. It’s at the end of the day not much cheaper. That's an extreme case, and it's the worst I've run into in the Whites. I like easy mixed and upto AI4 ish with a bent shaft "mountaineering" ax. Ideally, you never have to arrest, but you likely will want protection on the steeper slopes. As I have never been in the higher mountains in the winter before, this will be my first experience with snow and more technical routes. It thus requires greater skill of its user to give the similar results. It has the adze for making footsteps and stuff. The clothing is nice, but realistically even cheap Trespass/Mountain Warehouse gear will be good for your first year. Gloves are recommended by guide companies so that you have enough dexterity to manipulate carabiners and zippers. The axe you are prepared to carry is the best when it comes to it. If you want a hybrid mountaineering axe/ice tool, there are some that exist so you get the straight shaft and leverage for arresting like an axe, with the technical pick of a tool. ). Petzl glacier ice axe 13 oz. Honestly, 50L is really big for most ice climbing adventures. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. If I need a hiking stick I'm just using hiking sticks, and I'll switch to the axe when a short axe is what I need, that is, when I'm into steeper terrain. I had them maxed out at 50lbs and 35lbs, since they didn't allow a second checked bag over 35lbs on my flight. BD has a great reputation for making good sturdy shovels and if you’re a weight conscious ski mountaineer I’m sure this will turn out to be a great option. , Petzl Ride) are designed to be carried inside most packs. I've known some people who got into ice climbing pretty fast after being introduced to this, and regretted buying regular crampons and ice axe. It’s a combo ice axe and shovel at 2lbs. Safety gear like helmets, ropes, harnesses and mountaineering boots are worth spending money on. If you're comfortable with an ice axe and crampons, I would go for late June, early July for the best snow conditions. • Self-arrest with an ice axe • Crampon travel and for that, you'll need: • Climbing helmet (No substitutes--must be certified for vertical climbing) • Ice axe (NOT ice tools) • 10- or 12-point Crampons (NOT microspikes, instep crampons, etc) • Boots that will work with your crampons. JMO, others will say you can't self-arrest as well, but my experience tells me that to be more magazine fodder. People absolutely get away with it - but it doesn't mean that those choices are smart or responsible. . Losing your axe in a precarious place could be bad news. If you are willing to buy more stuff and want to do actual mountaineering and ice, like water ice. Or that they do neither "mountaineering" or "ice climbing" well. The picks are perfectly angled and finished straight out the box, and I have never broken one, yet ;-) When Klem and I climbed Spray On Top they were the only axes we could rely on through a diverse range ice and mixed climbing. It's cheaper, lighter, and literally the same shaft and pick as the Evo. Worst case, you can bring it to famous mountaineers’ social events and collect autographs on it, or leave by your bed as a, I don’t know It's best for adventures into the alpine where you are likely to need an ice axe and could encounter a wide range of conditions, but the terrain you plan to travel isn't too technical, and every ounce matters. She is a volunteer climbing instructor at The Ice Coop, Colorado’s only dedicated ice-climbing gym, where she does much of her training. We did 3 persons on a rope, with a minimum of two Hi mountaineers In 2020 I started doing real alpine mountaineering, went on a course in Switzerland for a week and climbed Pigne d'Arolla, then with my brother I climbed Strahlhorn and Ulrichshorn. It is easy to use in piolet canne mode with its stainless steel spike and its slightly curved shaft. You can buy a shorter one when you decide to up your game. P. In addition to the locations already answered, you can practice the motions of self arrest on any floor with the plastic guards on your ice axe. Eventually your gear is going to wet out. I mostly use it to lead in the gym. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. I'd also bring multiple pairs of gloves, regardless of what you get. The average ice axe will be between 50cm and 75cm. Neither shovel nor axe tore the shove-it panel. You won't need auto crampons unless you anticipate climbing ice. You just need something sized for comfort. Total ~ 172 oz or 10. First advice I’d give is to ensure your kit is sufficient, the top third of the tourist trail was non-climbable last year without winter gear, crampons and ice axes, so if you do ensure you’re prepared for winter mountaineering rather than hiking. If I am just mountaineering (glacier travel, steep snow) I use a Petzl Summit. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. Obviously not a replacement for actual practice on snow/ice, but a way to get in more repetitions. first, its best to summit during late winter / early spring conditions. Fully curved climbing axe pair with an adze and hammer, a very robust hybrid with a slightly taller and less piercing point than the sum'tec for hard ice and glaciers, and the camp microtech corsa for those lighter trips. If you are travelling on blue-ice, a short ice axe could be fine, but I think it is simply too dangerous to use a short axe on snow. You can still use it on low angle gentle slope. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. Would be cumbersome. The second day is to the summit (4 hours) and all the way back to the car (4 more hours). Team was unroped, we had all put away our ice axes and were about 50m from the spot where we would swap out our mountaineering boots for hiking boots for the last few miles to camp. Aug 12, 2022 · Theoretically, any backpack will do the trick, but the best mountaineering backpacks have special features that make them even better for mountain climbing. Most routes involve a lot more trekking where ski poles are handy and you only need an ice axe when the terrain gets steeper. We Based on my limited findings, I have made assumptions about the steel company previously making ice axe heads or thinking that a North Korean dictator forged this axe on a trip to the mountains but I don't think either is correct (especially the second thought). I had experience with mountaineering before (super basic stuff on Breithorn and more legit experience on Middle Sister). I am currently in the process of buying winter mountaineering boots, crampons and ice axe. 3 oz. I'll also second the OR Bitterblaze gloves, they rock. For versatility I go with the Petzl Summit. “Mixed climbing” uses ice tools on rock and ice. I’m short and a lot of brands don’t have short enough ice axes for me. Not trying to minimize the importance of self-arresting though. I typically don’t use super thick gloves unless it’s extremely cold (Denali, Aconcagua, 7000+m peaks). Going guided on Rainier next month via the Fuhrer (which is similar to the Kautz on grade & technicality from what I've gathered). Prepare for a lot of shitty rock and some hard snow. Don't overthink tools. If you don't plan technical ice climbing, get the regular Summit. So I brought a 70 cm Raven which i love. Food will be nuts, salt and energy bar. ($300+) These are ultramodern ice tools designed to be super aggressive, strong and expensive for the ultimate in ice climbing badassery and handling vertical mixed ice and rock. Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. The hammer is designed to smash in pitons, pickets and snow anchors. The patina built up over the years is the physical manifestation of the time an item has sat somewhere. Long axe is 1993 style. Click "SEE THEM ALL" and then scroll down to the "snow / ice" section for crampons and ice axes. 📷 An ice axe can be used for self-arresting, but that's not its main purpose. The Suluk isn’t an ice axe. I haven't been impressed with the various attachments that hold the ice axe shaft to the pack; it looks like your pack doesn't even have them. I want a beginner mountaineering experience, crampons and ice axe, etc. Outside will go: Black diamond helmet 12. Crampons, Helmet, Ice axe, and rope I strap to the outside. The 10 meter ice bulge is all over the place though. Fusions are the best mixed climbing axe I have ever used. Crampons are in a crampon bag in the main compartment. Ice axe in one of the ice axe loops. Related Mountaineer Mountaineering Mountaineering Climbing Outdoors Sports Outdoors and Nature forward back r/skiing The sport where you strap two boards to your feet and point them down the mountain. Sleeping bag in sleeping bag compartment. I'm about 180cm and I prefer ~ 53 cm semi-curved axes with sharp picks. Jan 28, 2025 · Corey is a freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, CO. I've been climbing for 16 years and have never heard of a single injury caused by failure of a carbon axe. 11K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. You should prepare by learning basic mountaineering techniques on mountains that are less technical and consequential than Hood. No overhead hazard on the route, so I'd leave the helmet at home. Ice axes have gotten a lot better, but technique is still far more important than tech. I have some rather old mountaineering skills books that detail how to set up both a retrievable ice screw anchor and a retrievable axe anchor. If Shasta is gonna be your first peak, I’d camp it unless you are really fit. e. Though my primary experience with them is ice/mixed in colder temps. ), while other climbers I've met swear by them. When climbing or traversing steeper slopes, a shorter ice axe is easier to handle since you don't have to plunge the axe as deep and pull out 65cm of shaft then rinse and repeat. It's not the fanciest or lightest, but it is really durable, and has great features. Sorry if this post isn't strictly about back-country skiing! I'm looking for advice/recos on what you guys use as a strap/loop for a mountaineering axe (as opposed to ice-climing axe). A lot of people had a ice tool used for ice climbing as their second ice Axe. qpbee dxroj wragk xfrcga jhc dwbicx mxz gimsyttx zspau gkzrfe xhghvfo qszi zlatkn rgbuo vxlb